there's no place like home...

Arrived Erie yesterday after a pretty quick drive up from Louisville. They are in the final 4 and little else is being talked about. Much like the World Cup game that was on Holy Saturday. Guatemala defeated Costa Rica. Many of the solemn processioners would duck into a place with a TV to follow along between processionals!!
There are many photos to discover and print. I figured out that each time I go I leave a piece of myself in that enchanting land and perhaps someday after I have made enough trips, I will be a complete human being in this most gentle of lands.
I'll leave more thoughts as I can and thanks to everyone who believed that these were important thoughts. I really enjoyed this process.

2 gringas wander into a small town

This was the title of yesterday's blog but as does happen here things crash at the most inconvienient time.
I'll try to recreate what I had said as best I can.
We decided yesterday that we would beat it out of town for a couple of hours so we hopped a chicken bus to Santa Maria de Jesus, halfway up the Volcano to Agua. We expected a tranquilo day with a cup of coffee and people watching. We didn't expect to be smack dab in the middle of their procession to the Virgin Mary. I'm not sure who was more surprised, us or the townspeople because you see we were the only gringas in sight. We were able to be a part of the procession and shoot photos at the same time. These amazing procession pieces were carried by the women of the town. How they do it in heels is beyond me.
Today is Easter and things are as if nothing had been happening for the last 40 days. We took a mini bus to Chichicastenango which is the largest market in Guatemala. Even Easter doesn't deter making a living. We managed to see part of their Easter procession as well. I think we are pretty much alfumbraed and processioned out.!
I can't wait to share this all with my friends and family. Hold onto your hats....there are stories to tell.
More ominous political signs...Donald Rumsfeld was here this last week to meet with the Guatemalan president. The jist was either keep the peace or we will ramp up our intervention here. Also, several million in frozen assets were released to the Guat Gov't. Coincidence... I think not. We have also learned that about 6 months ago a law was passed forbidding the Mayan women from selling their wares in many public places. Things look worse here than last summer. How will these people live, How did they before... Who will be a voice for these women?
Anyway, we are preparing for departure in the a.m...Hasta Luego

alfumbras, tubas and processions

3 necessary ingredients to the local Semana Santa festivities. The alfumbra is the offical name of the carpets that i have been referring to. All words in Spanish that begin with al are Arabic in origin and are from the Moors influence from the Spanish conquest.
Imagine all the churches in a diocese having their own processions with special meaning all occurring at the same time. Walking the streets of Antiqua the chances of running into one is excellent. in fact, as I write this another alfumbra is being created outside of our posada so at some point another one will come by.
Sleep has been coming in spurts since yesterday. We spent one more day with Armando and his family and they are becoming such a special part of the fabric of my life. La Doña wrapped my hair in the traditional headdress and Armando suggested we try on the traditional traje or outfits worn by the women. The photos are fabulous, not to mention the level of intimacy exchanged. Armando packed us and his family in the van and we made the 3 hour ride back to Antigua. During that time we gained some insight into the increased military presence. In addition to it being Semana Santa there has been increased indigenous protests against a Canadian mining company by the name of Montaña Mining Co. Their exploitation of the indigenous is what is trigging the human blockades and burning buses (so they have to replace the transport vehicles). I plan on a google search when I am done here.
We slept a bit and we were out and about around 2am to watch the building of the inital alfumbras. By 6 am the centurions had passed on horseback pronouncing sentence upon Jesus.
Although, I always imagined Pilate to be a bigger man! See 7,000 lbs of Jesus for details on the weight and size of the statues.
Here comes the obligatory weather report. 75 and sunny every day since last Saturday. No rain since late the first night here.
Perfect for milling about town or sunning on the roof top of the posada.
To my cathedral family, I miss you all very much during this time and I hope that what I bring back will add to our experience as a community. I carry you all with me and realize what an incredible presence you all are in my life.
Its time to experience the next gift, whatever that may be....

maximon around every corner

So fellow travelers we started our day with a tranquilo boat ride across lake Atilan. Remember, how much fun that was Team Guatemala!! We went to Santiago Atilan and much to our surprise, maximon (masheemon) was out for the Semana Santa festivities. He was part of the procession to the Cathedral and he will wait to make his entrance with Jesus on Good Friday. The main cathedral is an impressive collection of cultural and spritiual presence. There are no pews in this massive space (sound familiar ) and the updates came to a sudden halt back in 1981 when the head padre was assasinated. There are plaques that are dedicated to the disapeared and murdered in the region. This area was the hardest hit in the 80s and 90s.
We thought it would be a short trip but there is always the unexpected!! I am learning that to respect the Maya is to simply observe and spend time and once they notice you, you have an opportunity to go places that pay off in the end. We were granted entrance to the beginning of the ceremony and allowed to come and go as we pleased. For all who know me, I have already filled a disc full of photos and plan on more. Remember, the real deal has yet to start.!
My head is so full of ideas for Team Guatemal 2005 that I hope to remember it all.
I purchased a book about Guatemalan women and finding their voices. I continue to be drawn to this particular area because the pain of loss is palpable.
Observed what appeared to be at least 2 hippies from the 60s looking like something out of the lost planet. More of the gringos who come and never leave.
We leave Pana tomorrow after a final visit to Armandos family. Cant believe all we have done and seen and the final act is yet to come....

frozen in time

Greetings from Panajachel...Looks like the lost world from the 60's. Many gringos came and never left. We had a wonderful visit with Armando and Anna and the family. For those who remember being with the family, alot has changed for them. They have reworked their house and rebuilt it to accomodate the family needs. The elders are fine and were very excited to see us. The toys and clothes went over big. Armando is much more open about the stress of daily life here in Guatemala and his personal burdens. They remain an oasis of comfort in a strange world and remind me that the needs of his family are no different than ours.
As we made our way here today from Antigua, 3 hour ride, we noticed a visible increase in army activity and alot of movement in the mountain side. More large fires burning than usual. We aren't sure why but will ask. Politics is a dicey topic here as well. Armando expressed his concern about the situation in our country and I found myself personally apologizing for the reelection of Bush!!!
We are finding out more and more from these people on a deeply personal level and that is expanding our potential areas of service. We are making connections with the compesinos so we may have new directions for service this summer. It changes moment to moment. You just gotta role with it. More later....

no tengo los palabras por hoy

Don't worry, I won't write it all in spanish although I am amazed at how I am grasping it this trip. Each time I feel the wiring in my brain expand and make connections that I know are just lying dormant.
I had a complete post written this morning and when I went to send it everything crashed and alas the post was lost to cyber space. (getting used to this spanish keyboard is something so if weird things or signs get posted you know why, at least that is my story and I am sticking to it!)
But, as always there is a reason for it.
We took the infamous "chicken bus " to a maximon site in san andres and it was quite an experience. We have a new rule here for asking info. Once we get 3 out of 5 consistent responses then we know we are on the right track. For example, "Is this the bus line that will take us to San Andres?" Apply the 3 out of 5 rule and it usually works. Anyway, The Maximon site was wild... I would recommend doing a google search on Maximon for those not familar but I recieved a "cleansing" from a shaman as I left an offering of camomille tea leaves.
We sat for 3 hours watching the shamans at work. While no words were exchanged there was a communication at the most intuitive level that felt humbling and respectful at the same time.They would build pyres of wood, cigars, eggs, soda pop, salt, sugar etc and while working in the Ma'am language entreating the spirits for positive means. Their was a sign posted that read that using the shaman's and Maximon's power for ill would result in the ill befalling the user 10fold. Kept me on the straight and narrow. we took no photos out of respect.
while these elaborate ceremonies took place, the hookers and the drunks would come and go.
We have made contact with Armando and we are off to his area tomorrow. we will be staying over and doing some shopping for the mini bazar. Until later

coffee with the roosters

today we have decided we have had enough with the touristas here and are heading out for the hills for the day. this requires several chicken buses so it should be an adventure. We go in search of Maximon, the Mayan god/simon peter figure that is in several locations throughout Guatemala. for those of you who witnessed this ceremony you know what I mean. Otherwise, its one of those things you just have to see. we are taking advantage of the down time today, tomorrow and wednesday. We hope to go to Pana tomorrow and a women's cooperative wed. then its the marathon of celebration thurs fri sat. Sunday we go to chichicastenango for the huge market.
I sat on the roof of the posada, drank some coffee and watched the sunrise over the cathedral La Merced. The volcano de Agua is to the south and there was no mist this morning so it stood majestically for all to savor.
Someone please send me my 401k, I don't want to come home!!
will blog more later this evening.

7,000 lbs of Jesus

Palm Sunday
Mass began at 7am not sure when it ended.
The call of the faithful went out again around 11am and people began to assemble for the Palm Sunday Procession that will continue through Antigua until midnight tonite. First a carpet of sawdust is put down to level out the cobblestones and the stencils are placed and colored sawdust is layered painstakingly . In some places pine needles are used instead. As I write this they are preparing the street for the procession to pass. Teams of 80 men all the same height (they are measured) lift the wooden platforms and sway in cadence as Jesus with the cross passes. I'm unclear as to why it looks more like a Good Friday scene than the arrival of Jesus in Jerusalem but then I am pretty much unclear about most of this here. We were treated once again when the procession passed our pasado. Got some great shots from the balcony.
The deep reverence is felt to the core with these people. The title of this blog refers to the total wt of the wooden platform carrying Jesus and his cross.
Women carry the platform with Mary and a figure they refer to "Santisima Veronica" which means essentially that this Veronica is very special, thus the isima on the end of the Santa. I lack information on who Veronica is and as usual here in Guat if you ask 10 people you get 10 different stories.
The stories of the pickpockets are true. My bag was slashed in the main square but nothing came out,. thank God. The vulnerability remains and reminds me to ramp up my vigilance. Antigua itself is amazing but we plan on a side trip on several occasions to get away from the touristas.
The heart and soul of these people helps me to become transparent and suspend my gringa identity, if that makes any sense. I am truly just being.
Hasta Manana

cannon fire at 8:15 am

buenos dias mes amigos!
this is how we greeted our first full day here in antigua. "what is that blasting sound" ? was heard at the posada where we are staying.
I am gaining my orientation and it looks like I will have difficulty trying to place my thoughts within the limits of our language.
Part ceremony,part freak show is how it looks at this moment. Luckily we are situated very near the heart of it all and it starts 7am Palm sunday.
Mon, tues, Wed sound tranquilo and days for other opportunitiesbut by thurs it will be round the clock.
A little teaser here for you all. At approx. 2am on friday morning people will reenact the sentencing of Jesus by reading them on every major street corner dressed as roman centurions!!! then sometime after the crucifixion reenactment at 3pm Good Friday they will hang Judases from trees in select locations. a new twist for the late 20th early 21st century was to also add the indiscretions of the current citizenry in writing with the Judases.
talk about a guilt trip!computer about to crash must sign off hasta manana

we're not in kansas anymore

arrived safe will blog more tomorrow

down to the wire

The transformation is nearly complete.
While I am still here in the US going about my daily life something happens when I know that I am to leave my comfort zone. I start to take on the cultural psychology of where I am going.
Anyone traveling in Latin America knows the word "tranquilo" and "vente minutos". There is a cultural definition of time and it sure isn't what we know here in the US. The concept of time is one way to define a culture. Think about our concept of time?....
Everything must be instantaneous, or at least resolved in the time it takes to run a TV show.
People are not free here to honor the time it takes to create. Most are compelled to "wrap it up" and move on long before the heart allows.
In Guatemala you can sometimes tell the travelers who have not been there before. They fidget in line, grumble under their breath and generally feel as though something should be happening.
Well, something is happening..."Vente minutos" is the standard answer to our incessant questioning of "how long, how far" etc. 20 minutes becomes the runningjoke evenwhen you know its farther than that. They seem to "know" that we gringos need an answer to that question. But the magic occurs during the wait.
As I incorportate "guatetime" into my psyche while I am still on US soil, I can experience a dichotomy in my thinking and feeling and its OK! Tomorrow, the first leg of my journey...

semana santa guatemala style

1st time blogger here...I am inspired by Dean Downey at the Cathedral of St. Paul. If he can do this so can I .
I leave March 17th for Holy Week Guatemalan style. for anyone not familiar with what this christian/pagan experience is and for anyone who wants to find out more...stay tuned. This is the place to find out...at least through my eyes.
My world changed forever the first time i ever traveled from my humble roots here in Pennsylvania to Europe over 25 years ago. Since then I have found myself on some interesting adventures.
I have even managed to create them. Last year I took a team of newbies to Guatemala to work at Father Gregs mission in San Lucas Toliman Guatemala. I finally got it there. The greatest gift we can give anyone is listening to their story and believe me, everyone has one! Out of that trip, Fair Trade Films was born. Along with my cousin, we set out to document anyone willing to share their story no matter what they have to say and then bring them back here to the states to share.
What a better way to start then by creating this blog.
I am always up for new adventures so stay tuned...
celeste